The Northern Lights: Where, Why and How Almost everyone who travels to Finnmark or the North of Troms in Norway, is chasing the same thing, whether they say it out loud or not. A night when the sky stops being a sky and starts moving. The aurora borealis is the reason a lot of visitors (and even some locals) put up with sub-zero temperatures and long, dark drives in the first place, and it deserves a proper explanation rather than just a photo gallery — what it actually is, why it happens here specifically, and how to give yourself the best realistic shot at seeing it. What's actually happening up there 🌠 The sun isn't just a ball of light — it constantly throws off a stream of charged particles called the solar wind, and every so often, a solar flare or coronal mass ejection sends a much larger, faster burst of that material toward Earth. Most of it gets deflected by Earth's magnetic field, but the field itself funnels a portion of those particles down toward the two magn...
Travel to Vardø: Norway’s Witchcraft History & Arctic Wilderness Island
If you ask anyone who travels extensively through Finnmark to name the most atmospheric, unapologetically raw town in Norway, Vardø will almost always top the list. Located on the island of Vardøya, on the extreme eastern edge of the Varanger Peninsula, Vardø is officially Norway’s easternmost town—positioned further east than Istanbul, Cairo, and Saint Petersburg.
Connected to the mainland by Norway’s oldest underwater tunnel, Vardø feels like a place at the very end of the world. It is a town of dramatic contrasts: centuries-old fishing traditions, haunting 17th-century witch trials, dramatic cold-war history, and a vibrant street art movement that has breathed new life into its historic wooden buildings.
For travellers looking to experience the true, unfiltered Arctic beyond the typical tourist routes, Vardø is an essential stop. Here is your ultimate guide to exploring this extraordinary island.
Why Vardø Deserves a Spot on Your Varanger Itinerary
Vardø isn't a polished resort town; it is an authentic Arctic community shaped by harsh weather, rich marine life, and a complex history.
Why you should visit:
The Steilneset Memorial: A world-class architectural masterpiece commemorating the 17th-century witch trials.
Vardøhus Festning: The world’s northernmost star-shaped fortress.
With a very interesting story behind it, a must see.
Birdwatching Paradise: Hornøya, located just a short boat ride away, is home to one of Norway’s largest sea bird colonies.
Arctic Street Art: Scattered across abandoned fish factories and historic homes are striking murals by international artists.
When to Visit Vardø
1. Spring & Summer (May – August)
The Vibe: Endless daylight, screaming seabirds on Hornøya, and cool Arctic sea breezes.
Best For: Birdwatching, exploring the historical monuments on foot, hiking around the island, and experiencing the Yukigassen (snowball fight festival, usually held in late March) or summer cultural events.
2. Winter & Polar Night (November – March)
The Vibe: Dramatic storms, heavy snowdrifts, deep blue Arctic twilight, and intense Aurora activity over the Barents Sea.
Best For: Northern Lights hunting, photography, and experiencing the raw power of Barents Sea winter weather.
Top Things to Do in Vardø
1. Visit the Steilneset Memorial (The Witch Trial Memorial)
In the 17th century, the small community of Vardø became the epicenter of gruesome witch hunts in Norway. Ninety-one people (mostly women) were tried and executed for witchcraft here.
To honor their memory, the Steilneset Memorial was created through a unique collaboration between world-renowned Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and French-American artist Louise Bourgeois.
The Memory Hall: A long wooden cocoon suspended in a scaffold frame containing 91 lit windows, each representing a person executed, accompanied by their court transcripts.
The Installation: A glass pavilion housing Bourgeois’ burning chair sculpture (The Damned, The Possessed, The Beloved).
Local Insight: Visit the memorial around twilight or at dusk. The glowing windows against the dark Varanger landscape create an unforgettable, somber atmosphere.
2. Explore Vardøhus Festning (Vardøhus Fortress)
Built in 1734, this star-shaped fortress is the third fortification built in Vardø since the 1300s. It remains an active military site (the northernmost in the world), manned by the Royal Norwegian Navy, though it is open to visitors.
Rowan Tree Legend: Inside the fortress walls stands Vardø’s most famous tree—a rowan tree wrapped carefully every winter to protect it from the arctic climate, as it is one of the very few trees on this treeless island.
Solhilsen (Sun Salute): Every year in mid-January, when the sun reappears above the horizon after the Polar Night, the fortress fires a official two-gun salute. Schoolchildren get the rest of the day off!
3. Take a Boat to Hornøya Bird Cliff
Just a 10-minute boat ride from Vardø harbor lies Hornøya, Norway’s easternmost island and a designated nature reserve.
Between March and August, the cliff faces explode with life, hosting over 100,000 breeding pairs of seabirds, including:
Atlantic Puffins (Lundefugl)
Razorbills and Guillemots
Kittiwakes and Shags
A wooden boardwalk takes visitors right up the edge of the nesting grounds, offering unparalleled close-up views for birdwatchers and wildlife photographers without disturbing the fauna.
4. Walk the Street Art Route (Komafest)
In 2012, Norwegian artist Pøbel organized Komafest, inviting street artists from around the globe to paint large-scale murals on Vardø’s abandoned buildings and fish factories.
While many buildings have since been restored or removed, several striking pieces remain. Walking through the town looking for art tucked away on weathered wooden walls offers a fascinating glimpse into Vardø's modern cultural revival.
5. Go and see the Drakkar (often called Drakkar-Leviathan)
This is a striking, colossal wooden sculpture perched on the windswept shore of Skagen in Vardø. Built in 2016 by young Russian craftsmen from Arkhangelsk, the monument seamlessly blends the hull of a Viking longship with the mythical shapes of a sea monster, a dinosaur, and a whale. Gazing out over the Barents Sea, this dramatic landmark offers an eerie, poetic homage to maritime legends, ancient seafaring, and Varanger’s deep ties to northern mythology.
Logistical Essentials: How to Get There & Get Around
Getting to Vardø
By Air: Vardø Airport, Svartnes (VDO) receives daily regional flights via Widerøe, connecting to Kirkenes, Alta, and Tromsø.
By Sea: The Hurtigruten and Havila coastal express ships dock at Vardø daily on both northbound and southbound routes.
By Car: Driving the National Scenic Route Varanger (E75) from Varangerbotn to Vardø is one of Norway's premier coastal drives. You enter the island via the Vardø Tunnel, a 2.9-km underwater tunnel running under the Barents Sea.
Getting Around
On Foot: Vardø is compact; you can walk across the entire main town area in 15–20 minutes.
Hornøya Shuttle: Local boats run regular round-trips from the harbor to Hornøya during the spring/summer season.
Where to Stay & Eat in Vardø
Vardø Hotel: Located near the harbor, offering comfortable rooms, ocean views, and a traditional restaurant serving fresh Barents seafood.
Wilhelmsen House / Local Guesthouses: Great options for self-catering stays in historic houses.
Dining: Be sure to sample fresh Arctic cod, halibut, and wild berries. Local cafes like Nordpol Kro (one of Norway’s oldest continuously running pubs) offer authentic local atmosphere and stories from fishermen and locals alike.
Summary of Vardø
Vardø is not a destination for those seeking resort luxury; it is a destination for travelers seeking soul, history, and raw northern nature. From the haunting beauty of Steilneset to the bird-filled skies over Hornøya, a trip to Vardø offers an unforgettable glimpse into life on the edge of the Arctic Ocean. Enjoy!
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