The Northern Lights: Where, Why and How Almost everyone who travels to Finnmark or the North of Troms in Norway, is chasing the same thing, whether they say it out loud or not. A night when the sky stops being a sky and starts moving. The aurora borealis is the reason a lot of visitors (and even some locals) put up with sub-zero temperatures and long, dark drives in the first place, and it deserves a proper explanation rather than just a photo gallery — what it actually is, why it happens here specifically, and how to give yourself the best realistic shot at seeing it. What's actually happening up there 🌠 The sun isn't just a ball of light — it constantly throws off a stream of charged particles called the solar wind, and every so often, a solar flare or coronal mass ejection sends a much larger, faster burst of that material toward Earth. Most of it gets deflected by Earth's magnetic field, but the field itself funnels a portion of those particles down toward the two magn...
Travel to Kirkenes: The Ultimate Arctic Guide to Norway’s Far East
If you have spent as much time traversing Finnmark as I have, you quickly realize that the Norwegian Far North isn’t just one homogenous wilderness. Each valley, fjord, and town carries its own distinct rhythm. Tromsø has its vibrant coastal energy, and Alta has its river canyons and prehistoric rock art. But when you travel as far east as you can go—past the tree lines, right to the edge where Norway meets Russia and Finland—you reach Kirkenes.
Kirkenes is a place defined by frontiers: geographical, political, and ecological. Situated high above the Arctic Circle at 69°N, this town of roughly 3,500 residents sits on the shores of the Barents Sea. For the seasoned Arctic traveler, Kirkenes is not merely a quick stop on the Hurtigruten or Havila coastal voyages; it is a gateway to deep tundra wilderness, king crab safaris, sub-zero architecture, and rich history.
Whether you are planning a winter expedition under the Northern Lights or a summer road trip under the Midnight Sun, here is everything you need to know to experience Kirkenes like a seasoned Finnmark traveler.
Why Kirkenes Deserves a Spot on Your Arctic Itinerary
Most visitors associate Northern Norway with dramatic, jagged peaks falling into the sea. Kirkenes offers a completely different landscape: rolling Taiga pine forests, vast frozen lakes, tundra plateaus, and deep fjords.
Beyond the scenery, Kirkenes holds a unique culture:
The Borderland Atmosphere: Street signs here are written in both Norwegian and Cyrillic script, reflecting centuries of trade, cooperation, and proximity to Russia.
The Culmination of the Hurtigruten: Kirkenes marks the turning point for Norway's famous coastal steamers.
King Crab Kingdom: The cold waters of the Barents Sea yield some of the finest King Crabs in the world.
When to Visit: Choosing Your Arctic Season
Having experienced Kirkenes across all four seasons, I can tell you that winter and summer feel like two completely different worlds.
1. The Deep Winter (December – February)
The Vibe: Crisp air, snow-draped landscapes, and the quiet magic of the Mørketid (Polar Night).
Daylight: Between late November and mid-January, the sun does not rise above the horizon. Instead, you get 3–4 hours of surreal twilight bathed in hues of deep blue, pink, and violet.
Best For: Dog sledding, snowmobiling, staying in the Snowhotel, and chasing the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis).
2. The Arctic Spring (March – April)
The Vibe: Locals will tell you this is secretly the best time of year. You get thick snow cover combined with rapidly lengthening, bright sunny days.
Best For: Ice fishing, long backcountry ski trips, and outdoor King Crab safaris without extreme sub-zero temperatures.
3. The Midnight Sun Summer (June – August)
The Vibe: Endless daylight. From mid-May to late July, the sun never sets.
Best For: Hiking in Pasvik Valley, riverboat trips along the border, fishing, and exploring WWII historical sites.
Top Things to Do in Kirkenes
1. Go on a Barents Sea King Crab Safari
If there is one non-negotiable activity in Kirkenes, it is a King Crab excursion. These massive crustaceans—often spanning up to 1.8 meters (6 feet) from claw to claw—were introduced to the Barents Sea by Soviet scientists in the 1960s and have thrived in these cold, nutrient-rich waters.
In Winter: You travel by snowmobile-drawn sleigh out onto the frozen fjord. Guides saw a hole through thick sea ice, haul up heavy wooden traps, and catch the live crabs. Afterward, you head to a warm wooden cabin where the legs are freshly steamed in saltwater and served with simple bread, lemon, and mayonnaise.
In Summer: The safari takes place aboard RIB boats, motoring out into the fjord to pull up traps directly from open water.
Pro Tip: Don't eat a heavy lunch before your safari. The crab portions are famously generous, and the meat is exceptionally sweet and fresh.
2. Experience the Snowhotel Kirkenes
Located in Sandnes, just outside the town center, Snowhotel Kirkenes is built from scratch every winter using thousands of tons of ice and snow. Even if you aren't spending the night, visiting the complex is an experience in itself.
The Rooms: Local and international sculptors carve intricate ice art and relief murals into the walls of every room, featuring themes from Norse mythology, local wildlife, and folklore.
The Temperature: The rooms remain at a constant -4°C (25°F). Guests sleep in high-grade thermal sleeping bags rated for -35°C on real mattresses insulated with reindeer hides.
Year-Round Option: If you visit during summer, they now feature the 365 Snowhotel, a permanently chilled structure powered by solar energy, allowing you to walk into a winter wonderland in mid-July.
3. Explore Pasvik Valley and the "Treriksrøysa"
Head south along the Pasvik River, and you enter Pasvikdalen (Pasvik Valley)—a narrow strip of Norwegian territory wedged between Finland to the west and Russia to the east.
This area contains one of the last remaining primeval Taiga pine forests in Europe and boasts Norway's highest density of brown bears.
Treriksrøysa (The Three-Country Cairn): At the southern tip of the valley lies the point where Norway, Finland, and Russia meet. While you cannot cross into Russia without a visa, standing at this remote tripoint is a bucket-list moment for geographical enthusiasts.
Svanvik Botanical Garden: Located in Svanvik, this is the world's northernmost botanical garden, displaying Arctic flora and cold-hardy plant species.
4. Dive into WWII History at Andersgrotta & Grenselandsmuseet
Due to its strategic position and ice-free harbor near the Kola Peninsula, Kirkenes was one of the most heavily bombed towns in Europe during World War II—second only to Malta. It was occupied by over 100,000 German troops and was targeted by more than 300 Soviet air raids.
Andersgrotta: A massive underground bomb shelter in the center of town where thousands of residents hid during air raids. Guided tours show documentary footage that brings the town’s wartime plight to life.
Grenselandsmuseet (The Borderland Museum): Offers brilliant exhibits detailing the region’s complex wartime history, the liberation by the Red Army in October 1944, and the peaceful co-existence of different ethnic groups (Norwegians, Sámi, and Kvens) along the border.
5. Witness the Northern Lights (or Midnight Sun)
Kirkenes sits directly beneath the Auroral Oval. Because the town is small, light pollution is minimal once you step just a few minutes outside the city center.
Where to watch: High vantage points like Prestfjellet offer sweeping views over the fjord and town, making it an excellent spot for night photography.
Where to Stay in Kirkenes
Snowhotel Kirkenes / Gamme Cabins: For a unique luxury stay, opt for their warm Gamme (turf-house inspired) cabins. They feature floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows designed specifically for watching the Northern Lights from bed.
Thon Hotel Kirkenes: Situated right on the edge of the Barents sea in the center of town. Highly recommended for its waterfront breakfast buffet views and modern rooms.
Scandic Kirkenes: Located centrally, featuring an indoor swimming pool, sauna, and comfortable Scandinavian design. Perfect for families or business travelers.
What & Where to Eat
Dining in Kirkenes centers heavily around Arctic seafood and game meat harvested from the surrounding tundra.
King Crab: Best enjoyed straight from a safari, but local hotel restaurants also serve it as an upscale course.
Reindeer (Reinkjøtt): Tender, lean, and intensely flavorful. Try Finnbiff (reindeer stew cooked with juniper berries, cream, and wild mushrooms) served with lingonberries and potato puree.
Arctic Char & Cod: Freshly caught from local rivers and the Barents Sea.
Aurora Restobar is a stylish and welcoming venue in central Kirkenes that effortlessly bridges the gap between a cozy, modern dining spot and a relaxed evening lounge. It is celebrated for its warm atmosphere and an inventive menu highlighting fresh local seafood and classic Norwegian flavors alongside a great selection of drinks. My favorite in Kirkenes.
Surf & Turf Restaurant is a popular, family-friendly staple in Kirkenes that delivers an exceptional blend of land and sea. True to its name, it serves everything from succulent fresh Barents seafood and local specialties like tender reindeer to satisfying steaks, making it an ideal, unpretentious spot after a day out in the Arctic air.
Ritz Cafe & Bar: A casual local favorite in the town square for coffee, hearty lunches, and meeting local residents.
Logistical Essentials: How to Get There & Get Around
Getting to Kirkenes
By Air: Kirkenes Airport, Høybuktmoen (KKN) receives daily direct flights from Oslo (OSL) via SAS and Norwegian (approx. 2 hours 15 minutes). Widerøe also operates regional flights linking Kirkenes to Tromsø, Alta, and Hammerfest.
By Sea: The Hurtigruten and Havila coastal express ships dock at Kirkenes harbor every morning, marking the end of the northbound voyage and the start of the southbound journey.
By Road: Driving to Kirkenes via the E6 highway is an incredible road trip experience across Finnmark, though winter driving requires a sturdy 4WD vehicle and experience with icy, windy conditions.
Getting Around
Town Center: Kirkenes is compact and easily walkable on foot.
Excursions: Most activity providers (such as Snowhotel Kirkenes or Barents Safari) offer pickup services directly from hotels or the Hurtigruten terminal.
Renting a Car: Recommended if you plan to explore the Pasvik Valley or drive out to Grense Jakobselv on your own schedule.
Important Travel Tips from a Finnmark Regular
Dress in Layers (The 3-Layer Rule): In winter, temperatures can drop below -25°C (-13°F). Pack a moisture-wicking wool base layer, a fleece/wool mid-layer, and a wind- and water-proof outer shell. Wool socks and insulated winter boots are essential.
Pre-Book Activities: Because Kirkenes is a small hub with high demand from cruise passengers, King Crab safaris, dog sledding, and Snowhotel visits often sell out weeks in advance.
Cash & Cards: Like the rest of Norway, Kirkenes is virtually cashless. Credit and debit cards (Visa/Mastercard) are accepted everywhere, even for small purchases like coffee.
Final Thoughts
Kirkenes is not your typical tourist postcard town; it is wilder, quieter, and deeply rooted in history. It offers an authentic taste of life on the edge of the Arctic continent. Whether you are cracking into fresh king crab legs, listening to the crunch of snow beneath your boots under a blazing Aurora, or gazing across the river into Russia, a trip to Kirkenes stays with you long after you return home. Happy hunting!
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