The Northern Lights: Where, Why and How Almost everyone who travels to Finnmark or the North of Troms in Norway, is chasing the same thing, whether they say it out loud or not. A night when the sky stops being a sky and starts moving. The aurora borealis is the reason a lot of visitors (and even some locals) put up with sub-zero temperatures and long, dark drives in the first place, and it deserves a proper explanation rather than just a photo gallery — what it actually is, why it happens here specifically, and how to give yourself the best realistic shot at seeing it. What's actually happening up there 🌠 The sun isn't just a ball of light — it constantly throws off a stream of charged particles called the solar wind, and every so often, a solar flare or coronal mass ejection sends a much larger, faster burst of that material toward Earth. Most of it gets deflected by Earth's magnetic field, but the field itself funnels a portion of those particles down toward the two magn...
Travel to Berlevåg & Kongsfjord: Raw Coastal Power & Historic Haven
Tracing the northern contour of the Varanger Peninsula along the county road (Fv891/Fv890), you enter a realm where jagged coastal cliffs plunge straight into the furious grey-blue expanse of the Barents Sea. Here, at the northernmost edge of mainland Norway, lie two contrasting gems: Berlevåg, a legendary fishing outpost defended by massive concrete breakwaters, and Kongsfjord, a tranquil, storybook WWII-surviving coastal hamlet.
Taking this journey isn't just about reaching a point on a map; it is about feeling the raw scale of the Arctic elements. From powerful sea walls and famous male choirs to historic country stores and sweeping bird sanctuaries, a joint trip to Berlevåg and Kongsfjord offers one of the most compelling road trips in northern Europe.
Here is your comprehensive manual to discovering this remote haven.
Dual Personalities: Why You Must Visit Both
What makes this stretch of Finnmark so captivating is the stark contrast between these two neighboring communities:
Berlevåg – The Industrial Frontier: Famous for its colossal tetrapod breakwaters, rich maritime history, vibrant arts scene, and its world-renowned fishermen's choir.
Kongsfjord – The Time Capsule: One of the rare villages in Finnmark that escaped total destruction during WWII, preserving authentic 19th-century væreier (merchant estate) wooden architecture.
The Scenic Drive Between Them: Highway 890 between Kongsfjord and Berlevåg weaves past dramatic rock formations, crushed slate cliffs, and the sweeping sands of Sandfjorden beach.
Seasonal Guide: When to Route Your Trip
High-Latitude Summer (June – August)
The Weather & Light: 24-hour Midnight Sun, wildflowers carpeting the tundra, and pleasant coastal temperatures.
Highlights: Hiking to coastal summits, birdwatching along Veines, visiting local artisan studios, and enjoying fresh waffles on fjord-side terraces.
Polar Winter & Spring Aurora (November – April)
The Weather & Light: Dancing Northern Lights, extreme Arctic ocean weather, and heavy snow drifts along the coast.
Highlights: Snowshoeing along WWII coastal trails, observing wintering Arctic sea ducks, and experiencing the roaring power of Barents Sea winter storms from the safety of the harbour wall.
Unmissable Experiences in Berlevåg & Kongsfjord
1. Stand Upon the Breakwaters of Berlevåg
Berlevåg’s position at the edge of the open ocean made its harbor notoriously vulnerable to severe winter destruction. To protect the fleet, engineers constructed massive breakwaters (moloer) using giant, interlocking four-legged concrete blocks called tetrapods.
Harbour Museum: Stop by the Berlevåg Havnemuseum located in historic port buildings to learn about the immense engineering feat of building these sea walls and the town’s wartime past.
Kjølnes Lighthouse: Located just outside town, this isolated lighthouse stands watch over the waves and makes for an unforgettable photography spot.
2. Step Back in Time at Kongsfjord Landhandel
Entering the historic village of Kongsfjord feels like stepping into a living museum.
The Old Country Store: The Kongsfjord Landhandel is an impeccably preserved 19th-century general store and café. Stopping here for a warm coffee and homemade waffle surrounded by vintage wooden shelves and antiques is an absolute must.
Art & Crafts: Kongsfjord has drawn international creatives for years. Be sure to visit local studios like Kongsfjord Atelier for handcrafted prints and art inspired by local nature.
3. Trek to the WWII Bunkers at Veinesodden
Just outside Kongsfjord lies the Veines Peninsula. A gentle 3 km hike leads out across the coastal tundra to the ruins of a historic German WWII coastal fortress (Veinesodden).
Exploring the concrete bunker networks, gun emplacements, and lookout points provides a haunting historical experience.
The summit offers sweeping views out over the fjord toward the protected island bird reserves of Heløya and Kongsøya.
4. Summit Tanahorn Peak
For hikers seeking an extraordinary viewpoint, the trail up to Tanahorn Peak is one of Finnmark’s best-kept secrets.
Rising straight above the ocean, this ancient Sámi sacred mountain provides sweeping 360-degree vistas of the Barents Sea and the rugged Varanger coast.
Keep an eye on the skies—sea eagles (havørn) are frequently seen riding the thermal winds along the ridge.
Transport & Route Advice
Reaching the Area
By Plane: Berlevåg Airport (BVG) receives daily Widerøe flights connecting regional hubs across Finnmark.
By Hurtigruten / Havila: Ships call at Berlevåg harbor daily on both northbound and southbound coastal voyages.
By Car: Drive via the Fv890 mountain highway over Kongsfjordfjellet. Winter drivers should always check status updates, as high winds across the mountain pass can require convoy driving behind snowplows.
The road also closes when the weather is too bad.
Local Mobility
A car or 4WD vehicle is ideal for making the 30-minute scenic coastal drive between Kongsfjord and Berlevåg, stopping along Sandfjorden beach along the way.
Where to Sleep & Refuel
Kongsfjord Guest House & Holiday Home: Offers charming, restored historic accommodations right by the water, giving guests an authentic slice of 19th-century coastal life.
Kongsfjord Arctic Lodge is also a nice alternative.
Berlevåg Motell, Camping & Cabins: Located conveniently near the shoreline, perfect for independent travelers, camper vans, and birdwatchers.
Dining: Enjoy fresh fish dishes, local seafood, and baked goods at regional spots like Kongsfjord Arctic Lodge or local cafes in Berlevåg.
I recomend Restaurant Oliver in Berlevåg.
The Verdict
A journey to Berlevåg and Kongsfjord delivers the best of both worlds: the unyielding, industrial grit of an oceanfront fishing town and the serene, historic elegance of a quiet Arctic village. If you want to experience the sheer force of the Barents Sea alongside rich cultural heritage, put these two Varanger destinations at the top of your northern itinerary. Don't forget your swimsuit!
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